In the Hasankeyf market: Arif Ayhan, kilims and kahkabu

Arif Ayhan helps his uncle, Fares Ayhan, straighten the loom

Like many in Hasankeyf, Mehmet Arif Ayhan could easily choose to live elsewhere. For several years he made his living designing and selling jewelry in Marmaris, a resort town on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. “But I always felt something was missing,” he says. “Marmaris is culturally very different from Hasankeyf, and being so far from home took its toll.”

“I felt that Hasankeyf had potential,” says Arif, a Hasankeyf native who returned to the town several years ago to build a business and start a family. “Every type of person comes to Hasankeyf, and I can meet people from all over the world, people from different cultures.”

Arif, a former weaver, in his shop

Today he sells textiles from Western Iran and Eastern Turkey. “Each region – Hakkari, Tabriz, Kirmanshah – has its own history,” says Arif, “and each kilim has a story. I love sharing these stories with people.” He is also eager to help visitors, be they journalists, photographers, film-makers or casual tourists, make the most of their time in Hasankeyf. The only thing he asks in return is for people to tell their friends about his hometown.

“There is no place like Hasankeyf, with its special setting on the banks of the Tigris River. We played in the caves when we were young,” says Arif. He recalls a game called kahkabu, a distinctly Hasankeyf version of “hide and seek,” explaining: “When we were children, one of our favorite games was kahkabu. There are two teams, five people on a team. We would cast lots to decide which team would hide first. We usually played in the evening and hid in the caves toward the Citadel.”

Anyone fancy a game of kahkabu?

Do you ever play kahkabu with guests visiting Hasankeyf? “We’ve not tried it so far,” he says, “but it would be a good way for tourists to learn about Hasankeyf, especially because this game is part of our heritage.”

The tomb of Aslan Baba, on the far side of the Citadel, is
one of several mausolea and cemeteries that encircle the town

Another way to discover the special culture of Hasankeyf is to visit the tombs and cemeteries that encircle the town, such as the tombs of Şeyh Sevinç, Wuqanna and Imam Abdullah. “Each year in the spring (late May or early June) there is a special festival in honor of Imam Abdullah,” Arif says. Hundreds of people come from surrounding towns to remember Imam Abdullah, who as the grandson of Ja’far al-Tayyar and nephew of the Caliph Ali, provides an important link to the first decades of Islam. As Arif says, “It’s not just that Hasankeyf is home for me, but this place has a pull on everyone. You can’t describe it, but when people come, they feel it immediately and they don’t want to leave.”

What is Arif’s favorite pastime in Hasankeyf? “Each day I walk across the bridge at least four times to look at the river and see look at the castle, but the thing I enjoy most is spending time with my son.”

-- John

This is the first in a short series of posts profiling local Hasankeyf business owners.

The view of Hasankeyf from the left bank of the Tigris

Work slows at the Ilısu Dam site, but Hasankeyf residents have agreed to go

The news from Hasankeyf is as ambiguous as ever. The appropriation (istimlak) process took a big leap forward in September, with most residents agreeing to sell their property to the State. Despite this development, the timeline for evacuating and flooding the town appears to be as elastic as ever. Indeed, construction work at the Ilısu Dam stopped in August and has yet to resume, suggesting that there is still time to advocate for the preservation of archaeological and environmental treasure in a way that is both scientifically sound and economically beneficial.

Here is the current situation of Hasankeyf in a nutshell:

• In September, most Hasankeyf residents agreed to sell their property to the State and many subsequently applied for housing in the new settlement area
• Middle school students now attend classes at a new school in the new settlement area. Elementary and high school students still attend classes in Hasankeyf
• Construction continues on the new bridge and educational and cultural facilities in the new settlement area



Hundreds of residential units must be built in the new
settlement area before residents can vacate their present homes

• Construction work at the Ilısu Dam stopped in August and has yet to resume

In August the government increased property valuations in Hasankeyf by 35 percent and lowered prices of new homes in the new settlement area by the same amount. Initially residents expressed hope that they would remain unified in rejecting the new offer, but there were soon rumors that some of the town’s larger property owners were one by one cutting private deals with the government.

A list of objections and demands,
published on the Hasankeyfliler
Facebook page (Sept 11, 2014)

A group of Hasankeyf residents staged rallies in the plaza next to the municipal building to raise objections about the liquidation offer. They published a list of demands, headed by a call to preserve Hasankeyf cultural heritage in its present location. Other objections included the lack of adequate emergency health care facilities in Hasankeyf and the need for a committee of independent experts to evaluate buildings constructed by TOKİ (the state-owned construction agency) in the new settlement area.


By the end of September local sources reported that most Hasankeyf residents had agreed to sell their property to the State. The cases of those who refused to accept the revised offer will be referred to the court.

In addition, middle school students are now bused to class in the new settlement area and remain there for the noon meal. (The elementary and high school students continue to attend class in Hasankeyf and go home for the noon meal.) Parents have expressed numerous concerns about the new arrangements, including the potentially negative impact on student morale and performance and reduced safety and security in a construction zone (e.g., street traffic in the new settlement area, which apart from a number of public offices remains unoccupied, is dominated by large trucks and heavy equipment).

While the situation in Hasankeyf is discouraging, questions remain about what will become of the town once the Ilısu Dam project is completed. Local sources have offered different explanations for the work stoppage at the dam, ranging from disagreements between labor and management to threats from the P.K.K. Earlier this summer there were unofficial reports of road blockages and explosions near Dar Geçit along the highway to Ilısu. Sources close to the project have said that since the dam is 90 percent complete, the pause in construction activity is intended to give related construction projects in other locales (e.g., the new bridge at Hasankeyf) time to reach the same level of completion. For now, the ostensible target for completing the Ilısu Dam and new bridge at Hasankeyf is mid-2015.

Ilısu Dam, June 2014 (photo: Toon Bijnens, ICSSI)

When will people have to relinquish their homes and move to the new settlement area? No one can say for sure. One Hasankeyf resident told us, “The situation in the country is very complicated at present and it’s not at all clear when people will have to move. We should know in two to three months.” Another resident speculated, “Everyone will stay in Hasankeyf another two to three years.”

-- HK Matters team

Cancellation/Change of Venue of 6th Hasankeyf Ingathering (VI. Hasankeyf Buluşmasının İptali/Mekanın Değiştirilmesi)

[Türkçe aşağıda]

Hasankeyf Matters regrets to announce the cancellation of the 6th Hasankeyf Ingathering (planned for 24-27 October in Hasankeyf) due to the rapidly changing international situation.

We thank everyone for their interest in and dedication to all that Hasankeyf stands for and invite all of our supporters to conduct local Hasankeyf Ingatherings in their own hometowns. Spread the word about the importance of Hasankeyf, discuss and write about your previous experiences there, and find neighbors who are Hasankeyf natives, and ask them to tell their stories, take photographs, and save these oral histories and images for future generations.

Stay tuned for updates on efforts to archive the intangible culture of this magnificent town.

-- HK Matters team


Hızlı değişen ulusalarası durumlar nedeniyle Hasankeyf Matters VI. Hasankeyf buluşama etkinliğinin (24-27 Ekim 2014) iptalini ilan ediyoruz.

Hasankeyf dostluğuna ve çabalara devam ettiğiniz için herkese teşekkür ediyoruz. Şimdiden hepinizi farklı farklı memletlerinizde Hasankeyf Buluşma etkinlikleri gerçekleştirmeye davet ediyoruz. Hasankeyf'i yaşayayıp tanıtalım. Komşularınızın arasındaki Hasankeyflileri arayınız ve hikayelerini söylemelerini rica ediniz. Hasankeyf'te ve diğer şehirlerde eş zamanda Hasankeyf hakkında sözlü tarihleri kaydedebiliriz, fotoğraf çekeriz ve gelecek kuşaklar için bu görüntüleri ve sözleri muhafız ederiz.

Bu muhteşem şehrin kültürel mirasın belgelennmesi hakkında haberleri almak için bu siteyi takıp ediniz.

-- HK Matters takımı

6th Hasankeyf Ingathering, 24-27 October 2014

IMPORTANT UPDATE: Cancellation/change of venue of 6th Hasankeyf Ingathering (click link for details)

[Türkçe için önceki yazıya bakınız]

Explore and document Hasankeyf’s past and present, October 24-27, 2014. We invite artists, photographers, journalists, film-makers, craftspeople, musicians, archivists, folklorists, botanists, oral historians and other interested parties to help us build an archive – paintings, sketches, films, photographs, sound recordings, stories, and images reflecting Hasankeyf’s archaeological remains, nature, and intangible culture, giving all stakeholders the opportunity to see the town’s living heritage as a vital component of sustainable economic development in the region.

Please register by sending us an email at hasankeyfmattersATgmailDOT.com (include name, telephone, email, profession, creative interests and expertise with digital media).

Daily activities: October 24-47, 2014

• Record stories and oral histories: Record your encounters and conversations with shepherds, weavers, tailors, fishermen, gardeners, and others to capture examples of the community’s unique culture and history
• Contribute to the visual archive: Ample time will be set aside at different times each day, allowing for variety in lighting, to sketch, paint, photograph, record, and pursue other creative activities in a favorite spot
• Share your expertise: In daily photography workshops, participants will help young photographers with essential techniques, such as lighting, composition, storage and backup
• Use the Hasankeyf Walking Guide: As you explore, ponder the puzzle of urban technology and town design – gardens, water canals cut into the rock, homes and palaces, public works, urban technology linking a medieval city with its natural environment



Bıttım (Pistacia terebinthus), Rasçem orchards, Hasankeyf

• Relax and reflect: Evenings are for sharing ideas and work, playing music, watching documentaries, and brainstorming

Is there still hope for Hasankeyf?
The schedule for completing the Ilısu Dam has been extended into 2015. However, it remains unclear when – or how high – the waters of the new Ilısu Reservoir will be allowed to rise. In effect, no one knows how much time Hasankeyf has left, because there is no transparent plan for evacuating residents and salvaging select archaeological monuments. We firmly believe that as long as there is life in Hasankeyf, there is hope that a win-win solution can be found that’s good for both Hasankeyf and the Turkish economy.

Is Hasankeyf worth the struggle?
Absolutely, now more than ever.

Hasankeyf, with its magnificent fragments of Seljuk-era monuments, offers an unparalleled venue for Turks, Arabs, Kurds, and others to recall past glories, compare their narratives of the past, and explore the mosaic of cultures, dynasties, and religions. Hasankeyf, one of the first places ever chosen for organized human settlement 12,000 years ago, is still a city where civilizations meet for peace and reconciliation – not to mention tranquility, reflection, and dreams.

Practical information:
Pegasus Airlines and Turkish Airlines fly to Diyarbakır, Mardin, and Batman. Public transportation to Hasankeyf takes 90 minutes (from Batman) and 2-3 hours (from Diyarbakır and Mardin).

Lodging is available at Hasankeyf Hasbahçe. Accommodations include en suite rooms (double, triple or dorm) at the special rate of 60 TL per person (including breakfast) and space in the garden for campers (35 TL per person, including showers and breakfast). Contact Firat Argun, owner, directly at +90.530.929.1527 to make your reservation.

Dress according to local climate and tastes – both men and women should avoid shorts and sleeveless shirts/tank tops, opting instead for comfortable and loose-fitting trousers and shirt tops. Weather conditions can change quickly in late-October. Bring a sweater, jacket (for cold nights), and a raincoat to be on the safe side. Good walking/trekking shoes are an absolute must!

For more information, please contact:
Hasankeyf Matters
English, French, Turkish & Arabic
hasankeyfmattersATgmailDOTcom
http://www.hasankeyfmatters.com

Hasankeyf Hasbahçe
Turkish & Arabic
Firat Argun, owner
+90.530.929.1527

6. Hasankeyf’te Buluşma Etkinliği, 24-27 Ekim 2014

ÖNEMLİ BİR GÜNCELLEŞTİRME: VI. Hasankeyf Buluşmasının iptali/mekanın değiştirilmesi (detaylar için tiklayınız)

[Click here for English]

Hasankeyf’i yaşayalım! Birlikte Hasankeyf’in kültürel mirasını keşfedip kayda geçireceğiz, 24-27 Ekim 2014.

Ressamları, fotoğrafçıları, gazetecileri, belgeselcileri, el sanatçılarını, etnologları, botanik uzmanlarını, sözlü tarihçileri ve ilgilenen herkesi davet ediyoruz. Resimler, eskizler, filmler, fotoğraflar, ses kayıtları, ve hikayeler toplayarak Hasankeyf’in kültürel arşivini geliştirmeye devam edeceğiz. Çünkü bölgenin ekonomik büyümesi için Hasankeyf’in arkeolojik eserlerine, doğasına ve maddi olmayan kültürüne iyice bakarak ve yöresel gelenekler dikkate alınarak sürdürülebilir bir strateji geliştirilebilir.

Katılmak için, lütfen bir mail atınız:
HasankeyfmattersATgmailNOKTAcom
(Mail içinde adınızı, telefon numaranızı, mail adresinizi, mesleğinizi, ve dijital medya ile sanatta uzmanlığınızı/ilgilerinizi yazmanız rica edilir)

Dört gün boyunca (24-27 Ekim) Hasankeyf’te buluşalım diyen katılımcılar için çeşitli faaliyetler düzenlenecek:

• Şehrin tarihi yapılarını (Zeynel Bey Türbesi, Koç Camii) ve doğal güzelliklerini gezeceğiz.
• Amca oğulları, teyze kızları, arkadaşlarımız ve misafirlerimizle sohbet edeceğiz, sözlü tarihleri kaydedeceğiz.
• Çocukların açık hava “atölye”sinde fotoğrafçılık hakkında (ışık, kompozisyon, hafıza ve yedek) ders sağlamak için imkanı olacak.
• Çeşitli araçlar kullanarak (kara kalem ve renkli resim, fotoğraf, video, ses kaydı vd.) şehrin semtlerini gezip gözlemler yapacağız, arkeolojik kalıntıları göreceğiz, Ra’s Tıbbah tepesinden şehre bakacağız, sokaklarda, bahçelerde, çarşıda karşımıza çıkan insan manzaralarını resimleyeceğiz.
• Kısaca, Hasankeyf’in geleceğini hayalimizde canlandıracağız.

Hasankeyf için neden çaba göstermeliyiz?
Hasankeyf’in şu günlerde her zamankinden daha çok yardımımıza ihtiyacı var !
İnsanların ilk yerleşik hayat denemelerini yaptıkları zamanlardan beri Hasankeyf ve civarı uygarlığı besleyen bir yer oldu ve bugün de medeniyetlerin buluşma noktası olarak biliniyor. Özellikle, incelenmeyi ve yorumlanmayı bekleyen Selçuklu döneminden kalma çok sayıda eser var.

Kültür ve turizm açısından bakarsak, Hasankeyf eşsiz bir yer ve önemli olanaklar sunuyor. Şehrin çeşitli mimari geleneklere ait yapılarını, sokaklarını, camilerini, kiliselerini gören Arap, Kürt, Türk ve diğer medeniyetlerden insanlar, atalarının neler başarmış olduklarını görerek gurur duyacaklar.

Bu miras nasıl korunabilir?
Bir zamanlar Hasankeyf’in hakimleri olmuş Asurilerin, Perslerin, Romalıların, Hamdanilerin, Artukoğulları’nın, Eyyubi’lerin, Akkoyunlular’ın, Osmanlılar’ın vs. torunları olarak, medeniyetlerin buluşma noktası olan bu kentte ortak kültürel mirasımızı ve paylaştığımız doğal kaynakları birlikte değerlendirmeliyiz.

Hasankeyf bizlere miras kaldı. Düşünce, inanç ve felsefe olarak ne kadar farklı olursak olalım, ortak mirasımıza ve tarihimize vefamızı gösterelim. Gelin dostlar, Hasankeyf’te buluşalım.

PRATİK BİLGİLER
Ulaşım: THY ve Pegasus’un Batman’a, Diyarbakır’a ve Mardin’e uçak seferleri var. Hasankeyf’e toplu taşıma ile ulaşım akşama kadar var. Hasankeyf’e yolculuk, Batman’dan 1,5 saat, Diyarbakır’dan ve Mardin’den 2,5-3,0 saat sürüyor.

Konaklama: Hasankeyf Hasbahçe Pansiyon’da konaklama kişi başı 60 TL (kahvaltı dahil). Bahçede çadırda kalmak isterseniz, kişi başı 35 TL (duş ve kahvaltı dahil). Pansiyonun sahibi Fırat Argun (tel.: +90(530)9291527).

Kıyafet önerileri: Ekim ayında hava sık sık değişebilir. Gündüz hava ılımlı olabilir, ancak geceleri genelde soğuk oluyor. Onun için kazak ve mont tavsiye edilir. Yanınıza yağmurluk almanız da iyi olur. Bölgenin geleneklerine uymak bakımından, hem erkekler hem de kadınlar için uzun kollu gömlek ve uzun pantolon tavsiye edilir.


Daha fazla bilgi için:
Hasankeyf Matters
hasankeyfmattersATgmailNOKTAcom
http://www.hasankeyfmatters.com
(İngilizce, Türkçe, Arapça, Fransızca)

Hasankeyf Hasbahçe
Türkçe, Arapça, Kürtçe konuşulur.
Sahibi: Firat Argun
+90.530.929.1527

Guest post: Ways of seeing Hasankeyf

"The way we see things is affected by what we know or what we believe”

--John Berger, Ways of Seeing

When I was a small child, there were some abstract paintings dotted around my parents’ bedroom; brightly coloured acrylics on old bits of scrap board. My father was working long shifts in the shipyards at that time and had to concentrate on providing for our family so never developed his painting beyond this amateur level. However, his attempts to express himself influenced my own creativity and helped to develop a love of visual imagery that still permeates my everyday life.

Encouraging children to develop art and their "creative eye" is a gift that lasts a lifetime. To get pleasure from the simple things in life, such as a pattern made by peeling paint on a door or a sun-kissed leaf, is indeed a gift.

In May this year I was part of a group of artists at the Hasankeyf Ingathering. One main element of this event was to provide art workshops for the local children. Our art studio was a very simple space: a circular discussion area in the garden of the Belediye, which was kindly provided by the mayor.

We decided to make art "stations" so that the children could try a range of different activities. We came armed with rolls of paper, crayons, sequins, scraps of fabric and toilet-roll holders. The children were waiting impatiently as we arrived to set up, running to help us unpack our bags and prepare for the workshops. At first our young artists were so excited that they ran around trying to decide what to do first. Eventually, they settled down to begin work on their mini-projects.

The children were a mixture of ages and abilities so we had tried to keep our ideas simple and accessible for all. Some children made puppets, others produced a colourful Hasankeyf sign.

A small group of children were involved in basic stamping activities and others collaboratively painted a view of their hometown. We adults mingled and helped where needed to ensure that all the children were occupied although most worked independently and were happily engaged in their activity.

The children helped us to attached string to the poles enclosing the "studio" which became our hanging space. Once they realised the string’s use the children were keen to display their artworks as soon as they finished them. At the end of the workshops the children were walking around looking at what they had produced and pointing their work out to friends. Their artwork remained hanging outside throughout the weekend and the children added more pieces to their gallery the following day.

It could be argued that these kinds of community projects do not produce long-term effects and that it is unlikely that any of these children will get the chance to fully develop any artistic bents they may have. I beg to differ on both these points as I believe the world is starting to look different to these children and the world needs more people with vision.

-- Suzanne

Weekends in the art garden

Over the past two years, Hasankeyf children and volunteers from Hasankeyf Matters have met intermittently for art workshops. These open-air sessions began in the fall of 2012, when Sulyon, an environmentalist performing-arts group from Sulaymaniyah, Iraq, incorporated them into their performance during the 2nd Hasankeyf Ingathering. Thanks to the children’s enthusiasm, the workshops have continued, taking on a life of their own.

Each young artist (or team of artists) starts with a piece of paper, a brush and some color – if pencils or crayons are at hand they may sketch an idea before putting color to paper.

Recurring themes have been houses (with or without parents), the river and bridge in Hasankeyf, mountains, mosques, Zeynel Bey Tomb, helicopters, and even the initials “GS” for Galatasaray. The children mix colors and try new tools – sponges, paper towels, cloth rags, pine cones.

Sometimes the painting evolves and advances with an impressive degree of experimentation, only then to gradually disappear as the paper becomes saturated and begins to dissolve into pulp. What harm can there be in using color with a sense of abandon?

Participation usually varies from 10 to 40 eager young artists, and it can take a few minutes of coaxing to get everyone to spread out where each “team” has room to paint (or make puppets, or prints or whatever new activities the visiting art “coaches” introduce).

There are often so many participants that artists work in teams, sharing brushes, pencils and palettes. When the organizers are too slow to refill palettes, Hasankeyf’s emerging leaders step in to help, which works very well until everyone decides to become a helper.

The workshops take place on weekend afternoons in the garden behind the Hasankeyf Mayor’s office, where they are free of the fixed time and space constraints of a typical classroom. Children understand immediately that future workshops depend on the availability of supplies and an invitation to return to the garden, so they are careful to clean brushes, palettes and paint spills before leaving. Water, soap suds, scrub brushes and towels provide a whole new source of excitement and experimentation.

Time and energy permitting, some of the artists share the story that goes along with their painting. At a recent workshop, an adult commented, “There’s a nice structure in this painting.” Without a moment’s hesitation, the 8-year-old artist explained, “This is a picture of the world. It has this long road. And this is Hasankeyf; it’s hard to see but it’s right here.”

"And this is Hasankeyf; it's hard to see but it's right here."

-- John

The trails we leave

One of the points commonly thrown about in discussions on the significance of Hasankeyf is that of its continuous habitation, thought to date back many thousands of years. But aside from an impressive role call of past inhabitants and their stone-and-mortar vestiges, why does it matter that these ghostly antecedents were there, in Hasankeyf, and that people are still there now, today?

A little background

Hasankeyf's name may be related to "Kipani," mentioned in texts dating back to the rule of Assyrian king Assurnasipal II in the 9th century BCE. In the first century CE the East Roman historian Procopius refers to it as Ciphas (look here for a general history of Hasankeyf). Evidence of human settlement at Hasankeyf is most easily found in the monuments and artefacts that dot the town, marking the traces left there by Byzantines, Artukids, Ayyubids and so on. Indeed, the diversity of Hasankeyf's archaeological heritage is frequently cited as the chief reason it should be given UNESCO recognition.

Hasaankeyf's 12th century Artukid bridge

On continuity

...But, walking in the hills and canyons surrounding the city last month, another way in which use, habitation, human presence really matters was brought home to me. As literal as it is simple: the trails we leave.

The sides of the canyons are stippled with rock-cut steps, even handholds. As you negotiate them, mapless, the way reveals itself in stone rubbed clear of moss and lichen by the passage of predecessors. Yesterday, last week, last year, last century.

The existence of this anonymous inheritance is entirely dependent on uninterrupted habitation. Take away man and in five years the trails will be blurred by vegetation; in less than 20, almost invisible.

The passage of time

Of course, some of these paths may in any case be erased by a lake and obscured by silt and mud before they have a chance to grow bosky with disuse. But even those remaining high and dry will be left literally so; orphaned, cut off from the flow of people that created and perpetuated them.

In the grand scheme of things, alongside all that stands to be lost if the Ilısu Dam is impounded, this may seem a minor figure in a greater tragedy, but it is one the visitor feels keenly, as she explores Hasankeyf in the footsteps of the millennia.

-- Helen

Sketching a vision for the future of Hasankeyf

Last month’s four-day Hasankeyf Ingathering marked the launch of an archival project to record images, sounds and other aspects of Hasankeyf’s tangible and intangible heritage, with a special emphasis on drawing and painting. Participants sat one morning at Zeydan’s Artuklu Café, some sketching the Rizk Mosque minaret, others focused on the Royal Pavilion or “smaller palace” at the corner of the Citadel. One afternoon we sat next to the minaret of the Süleyman Mosque and Tomb, with the great Koç Mosque in front of us. As we drew, children would gather around and adults would linger to observe: a picture in the making holds such fascination.

Drawing workshop, Artuklu Cafe, Hasankeyf
(Photo: Hasankeyf Matters)

This was the 5th Hasankeyf Ingathering, convened twice yearly since 2012 and drawing participants representing diverse professions: education, visual arts, journalism, advocacy, technology and more. There was ample time to explore Hasankeyf’s historical sites and natural beauty through a combination of hiking and sketching.

Hasankeyf, by Katy Muench

On Saturday, our path circled around “Ra’s Tibbah” (the small mountain that forms the southern wall of the lower city of Hasankeyf), led us to a Shi’i cave mosque, water canals and mills carved into the cliffs, and then continued on to Derike Church, in the shadow of the Citadel. On Sunday morning, we walked upstream to Dera Vadisi, a secluded valley accessible from the bank of the Tigris River through a passageway cut through the rock. Monday’s hike led downstream past the remains of the Syriac Christian village of Atafiye and then uphill to the long-abandoned Mor Aho Monastery, where we enjoyed a spectacular view of the Tigris Valley bounded by the Raman Mountains to the north and the steep slopes of the Tur Abdin Plateau to the south.

Mor Aho, known as "Der Mahar" in Kurdish, sits at the top of
a ravine - "mahar" - which leads down to the Tigris
(Photo: Hasankeyf Matters)

12 Imams Cave Mosque, Zih Canyon
(Photo: Charlotte Roxborough)

At mid-day on Friday, our first day together, we sat quietly in the Salihiyye Gardens, observing an hour of silence in honor of the victims of the Soma mining disaster. Later, we walked behind the Citadel and stopped by the grotto tomb of Şeyh Sevinç, where there is a spring of therapeutic water.

Throughout the long weekend, we shared ideas for attracting more people to Hasankeyf and generating additional contributions to the archival project (e.g., through week-long drawing workshops; developing an “inventory” of sites and activities to capture in different media; geocaching; incorporating yoga and/or other forms of meditation into the program).

Ra's Tibbah, the hill directly behind Hasankeyf, offers
spectacular views of the Citadel.
(Photo: Hasankeyf Matters)

Other suggestions aimed at facilitating interaction between visitors and local residents, both within the scope of the archival effort and beyond, such as:

• Home-stays and local immersion opportunities focused on cooking, gardening, herding, etc.
• Community involvement programs through which school groups from other towns and cities are invited to become active in Hasankeyf
• Extended stays to teach a foreign language or facilitate workshops/coaching sessions on capturing different aspects of life in Hasankeyf (drawing, photography, voice recording, etc.)

A new alternative for introducing Hasankeyf
to global nomads www.geocaching.com 

Our hope is that some of the images and ideas generated by this and subsequent Hasankeyf Ingatherings will serve not only as a record of contemporary life here, but will become:

• An open-source process through which the people and friends of Hasankeyf can record memories and sketch a vision for the future.
• An occasion for decision-makers to look again at Hasankeyf and consider anew realistic, substantive and scientifically rigorous approaches to conserving the natural, archaeological and ethnographical heritage of Hasankeyf in balance with the demands of local, regional and national economic development.

It all starts with people taking the time for a closer look at what hangs in the balance.

-- HK Matters team

How to help, and other news

Whether it's writing an email from the privacy of your living room, organizing an event in your own community, or spending an extended period of time in Hasankeyf researching, teaching, or just exploring, there are myriad ways you can help us in our mission of showing the world that Hasankeyf matters.

At the top of this website, you'll now find a link for "How to Help," containing just a starter list of ways to contribute to the cause, a list we hope will spark your own creative ideas as well.

We've also added a new link for mentions of Hasankeyf and Hasankeyf Matters "In the News," a list of selected articles, videos, and blog posts in English, Italian, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish, German, French, Arabic, and other languages.

Finally, we encourage you to sign up for our "Friends of Hasankeyf" mailing list to get updates on the latest news and upcoming Ingatherings and other events.

Thank you for your continued support!

-- HK Matters team

Calling Visual Artists: A Path to the Preservation of Hasankeyf, May 16-19

The 5th Hasankeyf Ingathering will take place May 16-19, 2014.

Calling all visual artists, amateur and professional

We invite visual artists, photojournalists, radio journalists, and other interested parties to help us build an archive – paintings, sketches, films, photographs, and sound recordings – of Hasankeyf. Our goal is to create a collection of compelling images and narratives reflecting Hasankeyf’s archaeological remains, nature, and intangible culture, giving all stakeholders the opportunity to see the town’s living heritage as a vital component of sustainable economic development in the region.

Explore

Over the course of four days (May 16-19), participants in the 5th Hasankeyf Ingathering will have time to become familiar with the town and its people, work with children doing art, explore the area along the river and in the surrounding canyons, and create visual images, videos, and sound recordings – of landscapes, archaeological fragments, street scenes, flora and fauna, local craftsmen and musicians at work, the people of Hasankeyf or simply whatever catches their eyes, ears or hearts.

Daily activities: May 16-19, 2014

"See those sheep on the cliff?  Those our are sheep!"

• Use the Hasankeyf Walking Guide: As you explore, ponder the puzzle of urban technology and town design – cliffs, canyons, caves, gardens, water canals cut into the rock, homes and palaces, public works, urban technology linking a medieval city with its natural environment
• Meet the people who keep Hasankeyf alive: Encounters and conversations with shepherds, weavers, tailors, fishermen, gardeners, and others paint a rich picture of the community
• Create: Ample time will be set aside at different times each day, allowing for variety in lighting, to sketch, paint, photograph, record, and pursue other creative activities in a favorite spot
• Inspire children: In daily art workshops with Hasankeyf kids, participants will help them use paper, pencil, brush, and paint to explore ideas with color and line on a blank surface
• Relax and reflect: Evenings are for sharing ideas and work, playing music, watching documentaries, offering critiques, and brainstorming

Is there still hope for Hasankeyf?

Relax with friends

The Ilısu Dam is due to be completed this year and threatens to destroy 80 percent of Hasankeyf. However, it remains unclear when – or how high – the waters of the new Ilısu Reservoir will be allowed to rise. In effect, no one knows how much time Hasankeyf has left, because there is no transparent plan for evacuating residents and salvaging select archaeological monuments. We firmly believe that as long as there is life in Hasankeyf, there is hope that a win-win solution can be found that’s good for both Hasankeyf and the Turkish economy.


Is Hasankeyf worth the struggle? 
Absolutely, now more than ever.

Because the world needs more places like Hasankeyf

Hasankeyf, with its magnificent fragments of Seljuk-era monuments, offers an unparalleled venue for Turks, Arabs, Kurds, and others to recall past glories, compare their narratives of the past, and explore the mosaic of cultures, dynasties, and religions. Hasankeyf, one of the first places ever chosen for organized human settlement 12,000 years ago, is still a city where civilizations meet for peace and reconciliation – not to mention tranquility, reflection, and dreams.

Practical information:

How to get there
Pegasus Airlines and Turkish Airlines fly to Diyarbakır, Mardin, and Batman. Public transportation to Hasankeyf takes 90 minutes (from Batman) and 2-3 hours (from Diyarbakır and Mardin).

Sunrise, Ra's Tıbbah Hill, Hasankeyf

Where to stay
Lodging is available at Hasankeyf Hasbahçe. Accommodations include en suite rooms (double, triple or dorm) at the special rate of 60 TL per person (including breakfast) and space in the garden for campers (35 TL per person, including showers and breakfast). Contact Firat Argun, owner, at +90.530.929.1527 to make your reservation.

What to wear
Dress according to local climate and tastes – both men and women should avoid shorts and sleeveless shirts/tank tops, opting instead for comfortable and loose-fitting trousers and shirt tops. Mid-May weather brings warm days and cool nights. Bring a sweater, jacket (for cold nights), and a raincoat to be on the safe side. Good walking/trekking shoes are an absolute must!

Join us!
Let us know if you're coming by RSVPing to the Facebook event V. Hasankeyf'te Buluşalım, 16-19 Mayıs / 5th Hasankeyf Ingathering, 16-19 May 2014 or by sending us an email at hasankeyfmattersATgmailDOTcom.

In addition to your name and contact information (telephone and email preferred), sharing a bit more about yourself and your interest in the Ingathering -- your profession, your interests/expertise in visual media, your main motivation for participating, and any special requests/suggestions -- will help us plan the best event possible.

To keep up with all the latest Hasankeyf happenings, why not "like" our Hasankeyf Matters Facebook page too?

For more information, please contact:
Hasankeyf Matters
English, French, Turkish & Arabic
hasankeyfmattersATgmailDOTcom
http://www.hasankeyfmatters.com
+90.539.304.4944

Hasankeyf Hasbahçe
Turkish & Arabic
Firat Argun, owner
http://www.hasankeyfhasbahce.com
+90.530.929.1527

Trapped in limbo, Hasankeyf warms to a new season of tourism

Puzzled at how much the town changes from one visit to the next, a traveler returning to Hasankeyf asks, “How can there be so much work going on if Hasankeyf is about to be flooded?”

In recent months, for example, work has begun on a new municipal park; a field was prepared for a cirit tournament; and a network of surveillance cameras has been installed around town. There are newly paved streets, new walking paths, a new parking lot, and so on.

A new parking lot will leave more room for people to enjoy
the view (we hope for years to come)

Cirit clubs from Sivas and Erzincan competed in
Hasankeyf in December on a newly prepared field

Cameras have been installed in and around town

The local reaction to these projects varies from, “They will never flood Hasankeyf!” to “Hasankeyf is finished; there’s noting left here.”

The mood swings back and forth between hope and despair.

Fenced in, with an uncertain fate (12th c. Artukid Bridge)

Just three months ago there was a proud sense of solidarity and common resolve among local residents. It was the end of the tourist season, a four-man delegation from Hasankeyf had met with officials in Ankara, and many were optimistic that a bargain could be struck with the government.

Then followed a long, harsh winter. Sub-freezing temps kept a meter of snow on the ground for a month, with long interruptions in water and electricity. Short days, cold nights, no tourists and no income. Negotiations with the government in Ankara stalled.

“We’ve had enough,” says a grocer. Another merchant mentions that he’s thinking of heading west to find work, noting, “We’re not leaving Hasankeyf; Hasankeyf has already left us. This town cannot feed us.”

As the weather warms, there are signs the mood may be shifting yet again. The number of weekend tourists is rising gradually, and everyone is anxious to see the outcome of the March 30 local elections. Talking about his plans for the new season, a restaurant owner declares, “We want to try new things to attract customers. We can’t do everything this year. This is just a start, and we’ll do more next year.”

A new concrete footpath to the Zeynel Bey Tomb was built last year

Construction of the Ilısu Dam is scheduled to be completed within months, but it is not clear when the waters of the new Ilısu Reservoir will be allowed to rise, or how high they will rise. And without a transparent plan for evacuating residents and salvaging select archaeological monuments, it is impossible to know how many more seasons Hasankeyf has left.

In the meantime, the people of Hasankeyf eagerly await both day-trippers and those who can linger a while.

Weaver Fares Ayhan and textiles vendor Arif Ayhan
reset the loom for the new season